Included:

• 10mm Shaft Clamp : compatible with the main damper shaft

Recommended extras: 10" Knipex Pliers : an absolute grail tool for this job (and nearly every other fork/shock)
Park Tool Cassette Tool : needed to remove the damper top cap

Also needed: SRAM Butter and RockShox 4wt oil (depending on model).
Essential Tools Starter Pack : all the general things you need for suspension service
MTB Suspension Jargon for Beginners : if this is your first time doing damper work

How To Bleed and Rebuild (Read This Carefully):

• Only difference between Charger 3 and 3.1 is the base valve piston. Charger 3.1 has a new assembly that technically needs a special socket, but someone on YouTube opened it with a pin wrench because it isn’t torqued hard. It works fine for home use.
• And also, you only need the socket if you upgrade the damper from 3.0 to 3.1 and the upgrade kit comes with the socket anyway.
• If you want to go full DIY with luggage scale torque technique, we may eventually make a custom tool to clip onto a SPA-2 pin wrench for precise pull torque. Stay tuned. Anyway, unless you want to reshim the base valve, which is a bad idea if you don't know what you're doing, you don't need to open that.
• Honestly, you don’t even need to open these base valves unless you’re revalving. Just changing the oil is already a big improvement. These are not rear shocks, they last almost forever.
• I had a fox 40 FIT RC2 that did have a full rebuild for 10 years, only oil changes and it still worked perfect, even for intense DH riding.
• Main thing that can start to leak is the damper seal head, maybe the IFP o-ring (unlikely). Most other internals rarely fail.

Bleeding Procedure tips (critical):

• Make sure the adjuster tabs are aligned and torque the cam bleed screws fully, if loose, LSC will not work (see video at 14:02)
• Watch oil exit from the bleed hole at the side, it’s normal (see video at 17:00)
• Then pull back slightly, push again, repeat a few times while pushing hard on the IFP spring so it doesn’t come out
• Align the keyed parts of the top cap and compression adjuster tab
• Press the top cap down, compressing the IFP spring, and thread on the cap slowly
  

SRAM Service Manual (PDF): Pages 134–138

Good explanation of bleed problems and technique: Watch at 14:50

Comparison of Charger 3 vs 3.1 base valves: Read here

Quick Summary of Reassembly & Bleed

• Push the IFP completely below the bleed hole (from the top)
• Fill oil from underneath, screw in the damper tube
• Fill the damper tube fully, then screw in the seal head + piston assembly
• Don't push the damper shaft yet: you want to avoid pushing the IFP above the bleed hole too early
• Flip the damper upright againand clamp it a bit in the vase on the red sealhead (make sure you can stroke the damper), insert the IFP spring, and push on it firmly because there will be quite a lot of force when you will stroke the damper shaft.
• Now you can stroke the damper shaft gently, some oil will come out of the bleed hole, it's normal!
• Push to the line on the shaft (about 2–3 cm from the end), this indicates the correct fill level  Page 135 (C-Line)
• Pull back and repeat a few times, always staying within the line
• When fully bled, reinstall the top cap and align the adjusters carefully

This bleed process is a little more annoying than FOX because there are more parts and the IFP isn't directly linked to the top cap, so take your time.

 Extra Notes:

• You can just go into the red nut, check the seal head, change the oil without opening the base valve, and reassemble and bleed the damper GRIP style.
• Make sure to push on the IFP from the adjuster side so it's lower than the bleed hole if you do that.
• The whole damper design is actually very strong, if the oil is fresh, it works well even after years
• If you’ve ever rebuilt a GRIP damper, you already have the logic, but Charger 3 requires more manual bleeding and the compression assembly/base valve is not in one single part like FOX so it's a little bit more annoying.
• Use a 10mm shaft clamp to avoid spinning or damaging the rod during disassembly of the rebound assembly on the main damper shaft and on the base valve shaft if you need to go in there.
• Use our Torque Calculator to set torque with a luggage scale!
• We will make a special adapter that will fit on the Knipex 10 inch to use the luggage scale precisely on it.

⚠️ Warnings:
- Only attempt this service if you’re confident, bleeding is fiddly but possible
- Always depressurize air systems before opening
- Do not overtighten compression screws, they control low-speed damping!

Disclaimer: Only the 10mm shaft clamp is included in this listing. DIY at your own risk. For full details see SRAM manuals. See our Terms of Service.