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Shockwave Parts
Fox FIT RC2 Damper Rebuild Tool Kit (2013–2017)
Fox FIT RC2 Damper Rebuild Tool Kit (2013–2017)
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Fox FIT RC2 Damper Rebuild Toolkit (2013–2017)
Everything you need to rebuild your FIT RC2 damper, no lower leg tools included. Damper-only rebuild.
Compatible With: Fox 36 and Fox 40 forks using the FIT RC2 damper (Factory Series 2013–2017) and the clamps also work on ALL FIT4 dampers (2016-2024). Not compatible with GRIP, or newer dampers.
Coil Forks had an HBO in the damper but you don't rebuild that part anyway, it's not likely to fail.
The only rebuild Fit RC2 Video I found: From 1:22 to 1:55
Bleed Fit RC2 Video I found: Pretty good video!
What's Included:
- 3-in-1 Shaft Clamp for both damper and airshaft service:
- 8mm Shaft Clamp (damper shaft)
- 10mm Shaft Clamp (also fits air shafts)
- FIT Damper Body Clamp
This damper rebuild only requires this clamp, no special tools beyond the basics. Just pair it with the RISK/ALOED 6 in 1 chamferless top cap tool (or equivalent) and you're good to go.
Oil Info:
- Use Fox 10wt Green (or Motorex 5 wt) instead of the old discontinued 10wt red
- Do not reuse old oil, always drain completely
- Use Fox 10wt Green (or Motorex 5 wt) instead of the old discontinued 10wt red
- Do not reuse old oil, always drain completely
Essential References:
⚠️ Warning:
Do not open the base valve or replace the bladder unless it is blown. These parts are easy to damage and not required for most rebuilds.
Only clamp on the damper shaft or the flat section of the damper body, never on threads or eyelets or directly into the bench vise.
Always clean shafts thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol before clamping — they should feel clean and slightly sticky for best grip.
Do not open the base valve or replace the bladder unless it is blown. These parts are easy to damage and not required for most rebuilds.
Only clamp on the damper shaft or the flat section of the damper body, never on threads or eyelets or directly into the bench vise.
Always clean shafts thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol before clamping — they should feel clean and slightly sticky for best grip.
Disclaimer: This is a home mechanic rebuild kit. Use at your own risk. See our Terms of Service.
Additional Tools Needed (Not included in the kit)
- 6-in-1 Top Cap Tool : for opening top cap (typically 32mm)
- Slickoleum Grease
- MixMizer Syringe (or a funnel with a sealed tip, even a kitchen funnel works)
Rebuild Procedure (Also read the FOX official manual)
- Clamp the damper body using the included body clamp
- Unscrew the seal head using a vice grip if you have the old black sealhead (a new chrome version comes with the kit and fits)
- You can also use a cone wrench for the old sealhead if you want to preserve it
- Pull out the shaft/piston assembly
- Empty the damper oil and clean all components with isopropyl alcohol
- Remove the detent ball and spring from rebound assembly and store safely
- Clamp the 10mm shaft to unscrew rebound assembly (heat if needed)
- Install new seal head, and change meter rod seal if you want then reinstall rebound side
Bleeding the FIT RC2 Damper
- Turn LSC fully in and remove the retaining ring of the adjusters needle assembly via pick through the little hole on the side (magnet helps to catch it when it flies away, and it will!!)
- Re-open LSC and HSC fully
- Don't pull out the adjuster assembly yet
- Clamp the damper upside down using large shaft clamp, clean the body first with isopropyl until sticky
- Fill damper halfway with oil
- Squeeze the bladder slowly and firmly for 5–10 minutes until it resists a lot and you feel there is no more air bubbles comming out.
- Top up oil until it brims over
- Insert main damper shaft assembly carefully, avoiding glide ring jamming
- Torque the sealhead to 8.5Nm (low torque, don’t overdo it)
- Invert again, remove the adjuster needle assembly
- Use an 10-12mm OD tubing with your MixMizer syringe (I litteraly used a kitchen funnel lol) and insert into the bleed port
- Squeeze bladder, stroke damper, pull syringe, repeat slowly for 15–30 minutes
- Ensure all adjusters (LSC/HSC/Rebound) are fully open during bleed
- If still bubbly, Close HSC to flush bypass circuits
- If micro bubbles keep comming out, the LSC is probably not fully open!
- If shaft pulls hard, you probably forgot to open the rebound adjuster!
- Top up oil and reinstall the needle + retaining ring (don’t lose it)
Final Assembly
- Remove the screw from the needle assembly
- Grease and reinstall the detent ball and spring
- Test compression and rebound knobs for function and resistance
- Note: Some older FIT RC2 dampers won’t fully extend outside the fork, that’s normal because they are not slightly pressurized like GRIP dampers.
- Reinstall into stanchion using a 32mm chamferless socket
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