Shockwave Parts
Cane Creek Helm Damper Only service - 200h rebuild
Cane Creek Helm Damper Only service - 200h rebuild
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Cane Creek HELM Damper Rebuild – 200h Service (Air & Coil)
Full 200-hour damper service for both HELM MKI and MKII forks. Restore consistency, smoothness, and control with fresh damper oil and cleaned internals. Includes 10mm shaft clamp.
This only expains and include the tools for the damper side.
- Precision 10mm shaft clamp for HELM damper shaft (fits both MKI and MKII)
- Optional 8+10mm combo shaft clamp if you plan to also service the air side
- 30mm chamferless socket (or use the 6-in-1 Top Cap Tool)
- Good quality 10" Knipex pliers or adjustable wrench (tight clearances)
- Isopropyl alcohol, red Loctite, blue Loctite (optional)
- Bleed syringe or vacuum pump (optional, but helpful)
- Motorex 2.5wt damper oil (or substitute with Fox 4wt)
If you don't have a vacuum bleeding machine, you can just use a syringe or a small kitchen funnel to do a slow manual bleed. It works fine.
- Use a 30mm socket to unscrew the damper from the stanchion and just bleed the damper unless you're chasing major issues
- They use a bullet tool, I might be needed but with a lot of grease it should be fine, if you think you need one, get a NA-2 Bullet tool, it should work and tell use if it did please.
- Put red Loctite only on the tip of the rebound shaft. For the damper top cap, use blue Loctite if you want, but it's optional.
- Be extra careful with the detent balls inside the top cap, they’re easy to lose
Do You Even Need This?
Honestly, Cane Creek dampers are tough. Their bladders don’t fail like RockShox, and unless you’re experiencing major fade or weird behavior, you probably don’t need a full damper rebuild. A good oil bleed might be enough. If your rebound and compression feel consistent, you're probably good.
That said, if you’re chasing perfection or rebuilding a used fork, this service is completely doable at home with the right tools. Just be careful, don’t rush, and always double-check everything on reassembly.
– Don’t overtighten the top cap, it’s sealed with Loctite and o-rings, not brute force
– Do NOT lose the detent balls under the compression knob
– Always match the oil weight (Motorex 2.5wt or Fox 4wt only)
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