• Precision 10mm shaft clamp for HELM damper shaft (fits MKI & MKII)
• Optional 8+10mm combo shaft clamp (if you also want to service the air spring)

• 30mm chamferless socket (or the 6-in-1 Top Cap Tool)
• 10" Knipex pliers or slim adjustable wrench (tight clearances)
• Isopropyl alcohol, red Loctite, blue Loctite (optional)
• Bleed syringe or vacuum pump (optional but helpful)
• Motorex 2.5wt damper oil (or Fox 4wt)

If you don’t have a vacuum bleeder, a syringe or a small funnel works fine, just bleed slowly.

• Use a 30mm socket to remove the damper from the stanchion, then perform a simple bleed unless you’re fixing major issues
• They use a bullet tool; with enough grease you *might* not need one, if you want to try, a NA2 Bullet tool may work (please let us know)
• Apply red Loctite only to the tip of the rebound shaft
• Blue Loctite on the top cap is optional
• Watch out for the tiny detent balls inside the top cap, very easy to lose

Cane Creek dampers are exceptionally durable. Their bladders don’t commonly fail (unlike RockShox), and unless you’re getting major fade, squishiness, or odd behavior, you may not need a full rebuild.

Often, a good oil bleed is all that’s required. If rebound and compression feel consistent, you’re likely fine.

If you’re rebuilding a used fork or chasing perfect performance, this service is totally doable at home, just take your time and double-check everything.

• MKI Damper Rebuild
• MKII Damper Rebuild

– Do not overtighten the top cap, it seals with Loctite and O-rings, not torque
– The detent balls under the compression knob are extremely easy to lose
– Use correct damper oil only: Motorex 2.5wt or Fox 4wt

This is a DIY service. Follow manufacturer torque specs and procedures carefully. You are responsible for your own work. See our Terms of Service.