Fox GRIP2 Damper Rebuild Toolkit (2019–2020, Non-VVC)

Everything you need to rebuild your FOX GRIP2 non-VVC damper, damper-only service. This version adds high-speed rebound and high-speed compression adjusters compared to GRIP1.

Still extremely easy to rebuild, just don’t mess with the shim stacks unless you’re revalving.

This kit is the same as the GRIP 1, GRIP 2 VVC, X, and X2, if you already have the 3-in-1 GRIP Clamp Kit, don’t buy it again!

Use GRIP 1–2 Seal kits. Cheap, reliable, and shipped in letter mail.

Official rebuild guide here: Fox 2019–2020 GRIP2 Service Manual.

 Pro Tips

• GRIP2 adds true HSC and VVC-HSR (VVC will be explained in the future), both offer very good performance and don’t usually need revalving
• After the damper is open and you unscrewed the sealhead using our GRIP Clamps 
• How to Clamp Damper Tubes
• Rebound side is trickier than GRIP, more parts but easy if you follow the manual and don't dismantle useless things:
  • You unscrew the rebound assembly cap on the rebound adjuster side of the 10mm shaft (10mm shaft clamp needed)
  • Pull out the rebound rods from the center.
  • Unscrew the mid-valve with a 12mm wrench
    • Do not open the VVC rebound, just unscrew the small metal nut under the mid valve and everything will come out with it.
    • slide out the sealhead, change the seals
    • Grease the threads and slide back the sealhead from the piston side
    • Reassemble with the proper torques and make sure the the rebound rod is properly inserted into its mecanism.
      • Mid Valve nut: 4.5 Nm
      • Rebound assembly: 4.5 Nm
      • Sealhead into damper body: 16.9 Nm
      • Compression assembly: 16.9 Nm
      • Damper into fork: They say 28 Nm but thats quite a lot, 15-20 is fine.
      • Bottom nut (on lowers): 12.4 Nm
• Compression side can just be unscrewed and pulled out from the damper, cleaned, and seals replaced, do NOT open shim stacks unless leaking externally
• Replace the seal at the IFP and any o-rings visible on the compression assembly but don't dismantle it fully, it's useless unles you revalve or there is a clear leak from the middle of the IFP.
• Base valve side has one main o-ring you can easily replace, no need to go further
• Most compression improvements are internal to the cartridge (Shims and metal parts), service what’s accessible and don’t overcomplicate it
• This damper self-bleeds like GRIP1, fill halfway with 4wt, insert shaft and stroke a couple of times so the bubbles rise the the surface, top off, screw in compression assembly
• Open rebound and compression adjusters fully before reassembly or bleed won’t work
• Never insert the damper shaft fully after the bleed is done, always leave 2-3cm from the top when stroking or the damper will not have enough oil inside.