Fox FIT Damper All Years Rebuild Kit (8mm + 10mm Shaft)

For all Fox FIT-style dampers (FIT4, FIT RC2, etc.) damper-only rebuild. Includes shaft clamps for both 8mm and 10mm shafts. Use your Tune ID or serial number to identify the correct internals before buying any seal kits.

 Pro Tips

• Opening the base valve is rarely necessary. You can replace the needle seal when bleeding, the rest are mostly shims and hard to damage.
• Most rebuilds only require sealhead service. If your rebound still works but compression is weak or lockout failed, suspect low oil or bad bleed.
• If rebound is leaking from the tip, it's usually the rebound meter rod, caused by excessive pressure in the airspring (MAX PSI) with low-speed rebound running too slow.
• The rebound tip (meter rod) has one tiny o-ring, easy to replace if you blown the rebound.
• After the bleed, when you reinserted the adjuster needle assembly, the bladder may collapse slightly, that's normal. It returns to shape under fork pressure.
• Do not try to stroke the damper (after it's closed) without the circlip on the needle adjuster assembly, it will open and oil will spill and you now need to rebleed the damper. Dont ask me why I know this..
• Don’t forget to open all adjusters before bleeding. You’ll never get the air out if you forget this step!
• Upgrade option: Vorsprung Fractive Kit (if you plan to revalve your FIT damper)

 Rebuild + Bleed Procedure

• Clean the damper really well with isopropyl alcohol and just follow the Clamping Large Shafts instructions.
• Clamp damper body with FIT body clamp and unscrew sealhead
• Pull out shaft/piston assembly and fully drain the oil
• Clean all components with isopropyl alcohol
• Clamp rebound shaft (8mm or 10mm depending on model) and unscrew the rebound assembly, heat may be needed
• Replace sealhead and meter rod seal if desired
  

 Bleeding Process

• Turn LSC fully in and remove the retaining ring of the adjusters needle assembly via pick through the little hole on the side (magnet helps to catch it when it flies away, and it will!!)
  
• Don't pull out the adjuster needle yet or if you do, put it back in because we will invert the damper.
• Reopen LSC, and rebound fully and most importantly, put the climb lever to the OPEN position.
• Clamp damper upside-down and fill halfway with Fox 10wt Green (or equivalent)
• Squeeze bladder slowly to remove air, let it sit if needed

• • Make sure that the adjuster needle is fully pushed into it's hole or the oil can leak out from there.

• Top off oil to the brim and insert shaft slowly to avoid trapping air
• Screw back the sealhead onto the damper body and torque to spec (low torque of 8.5Nm, don’t overdo it) might need some more cleaning of the shaft clamp and damper with isopropyl alcohol.
  
• Invert again, remove the adjuster needle assembly
• Use syringe/funnel and bleed through the needle valve hole
• Stroke shaft slowly while compressing bladder gently for 10–20 minutes
• If microbubbles persist, check that all adjusters are still fully open
  
• After a while it should not do any sound and not any air will come out, sometimes I just let it rest overnight with the bleed setup connected so all the bubbles come out.
• Reinstall the needle assembly and retaining ring (assuming you didn't lose it)

 Final Assembly

• Grease and reinstall detent spring and ball
• Test rebound and compression knobs for click and damping response
• Some FIT dampers won’t fully extend outside the fork, this is normal because they are not pressurized
• Reinstall into fork using chamferless 32mm socket