Float X2 Inner Shaft clamps
Float X2 Damper Shaft Clamp
This tool works extremely well — but only if used correctly. Most failures come from setup mistakes, not the clamp itself.
⚠️ Read this first
If you ignore these instructions, you will damage your clamps or the shaft. This is not theoretical.
⚠️ Safety – internal pressure
Fully depressurize the damper before doing anything.
On Float X2, releasing air at the Schrader valve is not enough. Internal pressure can remain trapped.
You must open the bleed port.
- Oil can eject into your eyes → wear protection
- Parts can eject under pressure
Never point the shock at yourself.
When you do NOT need this clamp
- 2016–2018: Use a 14 mm spanner on the sealhead
- 2019–2020: Use the dedicated splined socket
You can often avoid clamping the shaft entirely by working from the sealhead.
Model differences
2021+ X2: Larger coaxial shaft → easier to clamp
2016–2020 (9 mm): hardest case → alternative methods recommended
Cleaning – this is the #1 factor
If it slips, it’s not tightness — it’s contamination.
- Clean shaft + clamp with isopropyl alcohol (multiple times)
- Wrap with clean paper towel
- Spray once with isopropyl on the paper
Oil from the eyelet will re-contaminate the shaft. Clean again if needed.
Clamp setup & alignment
- Clamp perfectly centered in the vise
- Both halves must be fully aligned
- Use ~45° orientation for full contact
- Inner air can must be fully threaded
Heat & Loctite
- Heat the eyelet only
- Never heat the shaft
- 4–5 seconds is enough
Clamps are plastic → too much heat = deformation
Eyelet removal
- Clamp evenly and firmly
- Use controlled impacts on the wrench
- If it slips → stop and reset (clean + paper + isopropyl)
Eyelet reassembly
- Reassemble all parts before threading
- Repeat full cleaning + paper + isopropyl process
- Apply 1–2 drops of red Loctite
- Max torque: 9 Nm
Loctite provides retention — not torque.
Manuals
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