Float X2 Inner Shaft clamps

Using the Little Shaft Clamp – Float X2 Specific

Β Thanks for being here! If you don't read this and take notes, you will break your clamps, I promise. Getting stuck while rebuilding a suspension is really annoying.

Important Safety Note: Make sure the damper is fully depressurized before trying this. On a Float X2, even after letting out air through the Schrader valve, there may still be internal pressure due to high charge rates.

Always open the bleed port as well, it’s shown in the manual PDF at the bottom of this page. If you don’t, pressure can remain trapped and:

  • You could get oil in your eyes, always wear safety glasses.
  • The shaft or sealhead could eject with force, risking serious injury.

DO NOT point the shock at yourself while opening. Treat it like it’s still live until you’ve opened both the valve and bleed screw.

Β When You Don’t Need the Clamp

  • 2016-2018 models: Use a 14β€―mm spanner directly on the sealhead (careful not to touch the shaft).
  • 2019-2020 models: Use our OPEN custom 2019-2020 socket (included in some kits)

In both cases, you can:

  • Depressurize and drain the oil from the damper
  • Open it without removing the eyelet
  • Push the seal head from underneath into the eyelet
  • Use a normal DHX2 Shaft Clamp to hold the shaft safely

πŸ’‘ Note: This isn’t FOX’s official method, but it works better and reduces the risk of damage to our clamps.Β 

If You Still Want to Use the small Shaft Clamp

1. Clamp Height Depends on Stroke

There are three clamp heights: approx. 20β€―mm (Small), 23β€―mm (Medium), and 26β€―mm (Large). Match the clamp to your stroke for max grip without hitting components.

52.5 to 57.5mm stroke: Small Clamp

60 and 62.5mm stroke: Medium Clamp

65 to 75mm stroke: Large Clamp

2. 2021+ Models Are Easier

They use a coaxial shaft and are less over-torqued from factory. The clamp works better on these bigger shafts.

The 2016-2020 9mm shaft is the hardest to clamp and you should do the opening without removing the eyelet because it works every time.

3. Clean EVERYTHING

This is where most people fail. If it’s not spotless, it will slip:

  • Degrease damper shaft + clamp with isopropyl alcohol multiple times because it's very oil in there
  • Wrap shaft with clean paper towel (dry)
  • Spray 1-2 times with isopropy alcohol on the paper before putting the clamp on the shaft, it increase friction a lot.
  • Re-clean and re-wrap if anything slips, there is probably some oil that dripped from the eyelet

4. Align Perfectly

  • The narrow clampΒ will not fit in the small opening if the inner air can is not fully screwed into the negative sealhead.
  • orient the shock around 45 degrees in the middle of the vise jaws:
    • The clamps are wider than the shock so it's going to be in between the jaws
    • You want to orient it so the force is applied on the full length of the clamp and wider than the shaft so it's tight all around the shaft.
  • Perfectly centered between jaws horizontaly
    • Try to be in the middle of the bench vise if you have a cheap one where the jaws tend to get croocked when you don't clamp in the middle.
  • Both clamps have to be face the face exactly

5. Use Heat to break red loctite

The eyelet is often red-Loctited. If stuck:

  • Heat the eyelet only, never the shaft
  • Use a torch or heat gun for 4–5 seconds
  • Don't use heat too much or the shaft clamp can melt.

Β Never heat the shaft, it expands inside and locks tighter.

6. Unscrew the eyelet

  • Tight the vise until it's pretty tight and make sure the shaft clamps are pressing equally on each side.
    • If the force is not applied perfectly in the centre of the clamp/bench vise, the clamps can deform, thats why we give two pairs! You have two tries.
  • Use a 1/2 inch wrench on the eyelet and give small impacts with the wrench.
    • It should unscrew but if it doesn't, try tightening more the shaft clamp.
    • If it still slips, try cleaning the shaft again, changing the paper around the shaft and spray isopropyl alcohol again on the paper before clamping.
    • This video shows using small impacts to unscrew it video in german at 4:35. It can work, just be carefull not to break it and also, the eyelet is pretty fragile and can bend so using the eye is pretty risky.
      • For 2021-2025 and 2026+ it should unscrew quite easily but for the 9mm 2016-2020 X2's, you should really unscrew the eyelet from under with the normal DHX2 Shaft Clamp.

Reassembly of the eyelet on the shaft

  • First of all, don't forget to slide back the inner air can onto the air piston (greased seals) and screw it onto the negative sealhead to have the biggest clamping area possible.
    • The narrow clampΒ will not fit in the small opening if the inner air can is not screwed into the negative sealhead.
  • This is a lot easier to reassemble because there is no loctite to break:
    • Just clean again with isopropyl alcohol
    • Wrap 1 layer of paper around the shaft
    • 1-2 sprays of Isopropyl alcohol on the paper
    • Clean the Clamps
  • Clamp the damper shaft in the vise like you did before
  • Don't forget the slide down all the parts on the shaft before eyelet reassembly so bumper, washer, o-ring, etc... depending of your year.
    • Check the manual to make sure you don't forget anything
  • Put a bit of lower leg 20wt gold oil in the positive chamber
    • Any heavy suspension oil works
  • put 1-2 drops of RED loctite on the thread of the shaft
  • Screw the eyelet by hand.
  • Torque to 9 NmΒ Max, it says 10Nm on the 2016-2020 but I think it's too much.
    • Use our Luggage scale calculator to torque without a torque wrench.
    • If you don't have a luggage scale, 9 Nm is very low,Β be very carefull.
    • Check this video @32:12 He barely uses any torque.
    • The red loctite will lock the eyelet onto the shaft, don't worry

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Β Manuals: